Monday, 13 August 2012

Pot Holes R Us

In spite of the catchy title of this blog, there are no pictures of pot holes. That is because we were too busy navigating them and it as much too dangerous to stop in the middle of one, lest one is rammed by an overzealous Jamaican driver, to take pictures. Let me start of the beginning of a very interesting and excellent Sunday . . . 

If you have been following the last few blogs you will know that some friends and I were in Portland parish on the northeast shore for a few days of relaxation out of the heat of Kingston. We usually drive up and back over the Junction. However, I have wanted to drive around the eastern end of Jamaica so that I could say I have circumnavigated the island.  Also wanted to see what is out there.  This is in spite of what all the locals kept saying: "you can't drive that road", "it is too dangerous", you will get many flat tires", "the road will be flooded", "the higglers will put trees across the road and stop you, wanting money to remove the trees", "you will have to turn back", and on and on the warnings went. 

However, with support of my brave passengers - Brianna, Ivy, Britta and Fred - we decided we would try the road, stopping at Reach Falls along the way and the statue of Paul Bogle  in Morant Bay.  We could always turn back :-)  

Turns out that it was folklore and we had made a serendipitous decision. The eastern shore is extra-ordinarily beautiful: sometimes we felt like we were driving through the countryside of northern England or Ireland, complete with stone fences and hedgerows;  and sometimes I felt like we could have been on the north shore of Oahu watching the surfers. 

Most of the road was just fine and much better than many roads I have driven in Jamaica. The pot-holed section lasted about 25 km, started a while after we left Reach Falls and lasted until just west of Port Morant, and took us about 90 minutes to navigate. And I do mean navigate: these are caverns or dugouts or whatever you want to call them and they cross the entire road, with little respite in the entire 25 km stretch. Sometimes you can drive through them slowly, rarely can you drive around them, and often you have to ease the front tires hesitantly and hope they come out the other side before the back tires get stuck.  Fortunately, we did not get stuck and no flat tires.  Though I certainly would not want to do this in the rain or at night. 

Unfortunately we did not see the famous Edna Manly statue of the equally famous leader of the Morant Bay Rebellion. According to Brianna's Lonely Planet book, which she wisely brought with her, it has been removed for restoration after damage from the last hurricane. 

It was good to be home. But I would do it again. And next time I'll try and get some pictures of the pot holes. In the meantime, here are the pictures I do have . . .
The green farmlands of eastern Portland parish, between Priestman's River and Manchioneal.

Long bay.  The strong surf and undertow prevent large tourist developments, but it is a gorgeous beach.

Fred walking the beach.

Ivy soaking up the beauty and the sun.

Rest stop across from Long Beach

Road along the cliffs of the eastern shore.

Sheltered harbour of Manchioneal with painted dugout canoes on the shore.

Drivers River at Reach Falls

Reach Falls. There were more falls higher up, but we did not want to take the tour up there as we were more keen to cool down in the waters. It was very hot and humid. You can swim here in the pools under the falls; and also enter the falls midway and come down and out through the curtain of water.

Sunny and her little cousin Raj. They sat with me and kept stroking my hair and saying "soft".  I had to stroke their hair and say "prickly!"  They laughed at that and had a lot of fun looking at their pictures on my camera. 

Upper pool at Reach Falls

Upper pool at Reach Falls



Sunday, 12 August 2012

Blue Lagoon

After Castleton Botanic Gardens, we arrived at Frenchman's Cove and San San Tropez.  I have stayed at San San Tropez previously and was happy to be back - it is right across the road from Frenchman's Cove. We had a wonderful dinner of fresh tomato bruschetta, pasta, and salad . . .  such a treat. 

If you want pictures of San San Tropez, go to my blog of March 25th, Frenchman's Cove.

On Saturday morning we decided to be tourists and went to Blue Lagoon . . . 


Our raft awaits us . . . 

Blue Lagoon with beach on the other side.

Kate and Jinty boarding the raft for our tour and transport to the beach on the other side of the lagoon. 

Villas, some for rent and some under construction, on the edge of the lagoon. The lovely white villa comes with 4 bedrooms, maid and a cook and rents for $1,000 US per night.

Earl, our punter.

Kate trying her hand at punting . . . 

Kate just about punting herself into the drink :-)

Villas under construction - for a very long time!


Used to be a restaurant and bar on the lagoon until Hurricane Gilbert came along . . . and now sits as a reminder of the past.

Jinty was the first in!  Waters were wonderfully cool and we all enjoyed a good long swim. It is about 60 to 80 metres deep with limestone caves below, giving it the wonderful blue colour and eponymous name. 



Almonds washed ashore and everywhere else.

Freshwater spring and pool on edge of the lagoon.


Castleton Gardens

After a month back in Jamaica from my Canadian summer holiday, it was time to get out of Kingston for a long weekend. It is very hot this time of year, with days of very high humidity due to the rainy season.  Once the rains come, then it cools for a day or two and then the temperature is on the rise again . . . 

Kate's Mum is visiting from Florida - even she finds it too hot here! - and they had plans to go up to Frenchman's Cove in Portland parish on the northeast shore. And they didn't have a ride. That was all the encouragement that I needed. There are no nice, air-conditioned buses that go to this part of Jamaica - unlike the ones that do service Ocho Rios and Montego Bay, and Santa Cruz and Negril. Only coasters - and that is another story (see previous blogs).

So I rented a car and planned to take Friday off work.  Not wanting to leave two empty seats in the car, Britta and Fred joined us.  I have driven the route from Kingston to Port Antonio several times - very twisty, beautiful and interesting - and always passed Castleton Gardens on a lonely stretch in the mountains, though did not know much about it and difficult to find out any information. This time we planned to stop and take a look.  

So we did and it was beautiful.  As so many places in Jamaica, it is long past its glory days however giving you a glimpse of those days.  The gardens are vast, covering both sides of the road.  There are no maps, booklets or information, etc. However a deaf tour guide did attach himself to us and showed us many treasures and surprises. He was a gardeners at Castleton for many years and then let go (retired is probably the more appropriate term) but he is allowed to approach visitors and earns a small living from our donations.  Of course, because he is deaf you can't ask any questions . . .  you just follow along and listen.  We never did find out his name. 
!
Hope you like pictures of flowers because there is a lot of them.

The Wag Water River in Castleton Gardens.

Fred and Britta


Have no idea what plant this is, but impressive.  I have a book on Flowers of Jamaica but left it home in Kingston.  How useful is that?


Crossing the road to the upper section of the gardens.

The gardens are about 145 years old, originally a sugar plantation and established by the plantation owner and named after him. There are many species imported from all over the world.

Some nicely shaded picnic areas throughout the lower gardens. It was very quiet on a Friday morning, though would expect it to be popular with families on the weekends.




This feathery tree flower was lovely.  Can't wait to get home and look it up.


Britta studying a most interest growth around the base of a very tall tree. 




I always like it when I get a serendipitous shot, such as the ant exploring the flower :-)


Kate and her Mum, Jinty.



Our deaf tour guide.  I rather liked his "Barbie" bag.

A vestige of glory days . . . 




Hibiscus after a rain shower.